What's In a Name?

My intentions for this recipe and post was to explain my blog title, sel adore. But it ain’t working. I’m over it. Totally. Over. It. In the months, even years, I’ve had the dream of creating a food blog, coming up with a title has been such an obstacle. It doesn’t really feel like you can do anything without a name. I asked friends and family, made lists, crossed them off again, ruminated over it until finally I wanted to just get on with it, so I settled on what I thought was my most decent idea.  I knew from the inception that the name “sel adore” wasn’t quite right; almost a placeholder for what would eventually be something amazing (still hoping!) and it’s time has come quicker than I thought.

Well, why did I go with it? Before I had the opportunity to attend culinary school, I went to university for about a million years, switching between majors and schools and even states. The general track I was on throughout my indecisive undergrad years was an English studies one, which as everyone knows is one of the most useful, marketable degrees. I ended up with a diploma that says, “creative non-fiction writing” on it, even though I’m still not totally sure what that means. I wasn’t a very good student and I sorta skated along, writing mostly about big, important, life stuff like emotions and feelings and drama (cue worlds tiniest violin).

But where does “sel adore” come from? Creative non-fiction writing majors spend a lot of time workshopping (aka: sitting in a circle, pretending you read everyone else’s work while nice-judging each other), and well, the memory is old and was never really that clear to begin with, but during one of these workshops someone brought up the concept of “cellar door,” saying it was considered by scholars to be the most beautiful phonetic phrase in the English language. The phrase and it’s meaning stuck with me and came to mind when I was brainstorming a blog title, I looked up where the concept was from and I found out I might have attributed more to it than it really deserves (Shakespeare didn’t actually use it, huh), but whatever. I took it and ran with it, cellar door to sel adore. “Salt love” is it’s translation from French (I’m sure you figured that out) and that spoke to me as a baker and a cook, because salt is essential in everything.

Why isn't sel adore right? Well, I don't speak French and I haven't spent much time there (and to be honest, it ain't my fave country or cuisine). It isn't catchy or memorable and it doesn't make sense grammatically (in English at least, is it correct in French? I wouldn't know!). I spoke with an entrepreneur and she recommended a change to something simple and straightforward, something that actually says me and what I want this blog to represent. I have a lot of figuring out to do.

So. I baked a cake in which to say all of this, it’s got salted caramel to speak to the sel and chocolate to reflect the adore and it was really, really good (if I do say so myself, which I really can because I ate half of it). You should still make this cake even though I need a new blog title; I promise they really have nothing to do with each other.

The cake/filling and frosting recipes are from my first muse, little Ms. Martha Stewart. Gah, did I love her. And for my first dedicated recipe just to my blog, I wanted to honor her as my original inspiration. She challenged me, (sometimes unjustly, do you think she leaves instructions out?) and her magazine and the photos in it defined beauty and esthetics for my small life as a kid. I used her recipe pretty verbatim, adjusting the cake only for my altitude here in Colorado. I baked her three layer cake recipe in two (tall) 6 inch pans and one 8 inch with a little batter left over that I may or may not have heavily sampled. I cut the larger layer into a 6 inch circle (using my cake pan as a template) to create three 6 inch layers that I split in half before constructing the cake. This dessert is super over-the-top, so don't do anything silly like skimp on the homemade caramel…really layer it in there, you will not regret it. 

Do you have any ideas for my blog title? Can you help me out? Let me know if you come up with something, I'm certainly listening! This whole thing is a new adventure and I'm thrilled to even be doing it, the title and everything else will fall into place. But first, there is a salted caramel chocolate cake you should be making!

Martha has the recipe for the cake, caramel and frosting right...here. Thanks, girlfriend.

If you want to read more about the concept of "cellar door" check out this article.

Spread the Compound Butter Love!

One of the easiest, most impressive ways to up your flavor-game is to incorporate seasoned butters into your cooking repertoire.  Seriously one of the simplest, quickest most impressive things I learned at culinary school, compound butters add a level of sophistication and skill to many dishes. From melting over a grilled rib-eye steak to smearing on a slice of hot baked bread, enhanced butters are deceptively simple compared to the amount of flavor and flair they add to a dish.

I remember reviewing the recipe for the classic “Maître d'Hôtel Butter” before class during the foundations portion of the culinary program and thinking to myself, “is this even a recipe?”. Mixing a little parsley and lemon into softened butter seemed too easy to be worth covering in culinary school, but in our lecture that day my chef instructor opened my eyes to the innumerable variations and ideas on how we might use compound butter to elevate our cooking.  From that lecture on, it was expected that any butter on the table during meals at school were to be flavored to enhance the day’s menu. It was challenging at times, some were more popular than others (the anchovy/caper butter was…interesting) but we quickly came to appreciate all the ways you could add flavor and richness with compound butters.

Super simple to make and even easier to store and serve, compound butter is an easy, fast and impressive technique to elevate your cooking.  After mixing your ingredients into softened butter, just shape into a log, wrap well and store in the freezer. Anytime you want to add that something extra to a dish, just slice off an inch or two from your compound butter log and you have an instant boost of flavor. Furthermore, for an incredibly quick appetizer, an array of compound butters and hot bread make an interesting, delicious snack.

The three variations of compound butter that I’ve included are just the tip of the tasty iceberg of things you can mix into butter. The most classic compound butter is the Maître d'Hôtel Butter, it is simply softened butter mixed with a bit of lemon juice, chopped parsley, salt and fresh ground black pepper. It is excellent on top of a grilled piece of meat, from steak to salmon and it also wonderful for melting over steamed vegetables. Merlot and shallot butter is a perfect match for lamb or beef as well as sautéed mushrooms. Lastly, the smoked paprika and cilantro butter would be excellent on sweet corn on the cob, grilled fish or cornbread.

There is no end to the variations on compound butter; in class we added everything from black olives and toasted walnuts for a savory spread to cinnamon and vanilla for smothering fresh brioche bread. Compound butters were a way to experiment with flavor combinations, different herbs and spices and to expand our palates and knowledge of ingredients. At home, you can experiment the same way, probably with many of the ingredients you already have. For each of the recipes shown, just combine herbs, spices and flavorings with the softened butter, shape into a log on parchment or plastic wrap and refrigerate or freeze until use.

Maître d'Hôtel Butter or Parsley and Lemon Compound Butter

           

            ½ lb softened butter

            3 Tbs chopped fresh parsley

            1 ½ Tbs lemon juice

1 tsp lemon zest

            2 tsp kosher salt

            fresh black pepper to taste

Merlot and Shallot Butter

            ½ lb softened butter

            1 cup merlot wine reduced over low heat to 2 tablespoons

            1 small shallot – minced fine

            1 Tbs fresh rosemary – minced fine

            2 tsp kosher salt

            fresh black pepper to taste

Smoked Paprika and Cilantro Butter

           

            ½ lb softened butter

            1 Tbs smoked paprika

            2 Tbs chopped fresh cilantro

            few dashes of hot sauce

            2 tsp kosher salt

            fresh black pepper to taste

            

Epistle to the Thistle

A resolution that I’m sure makes many New Year lists: “eat more vegetables,” a resolution I hope is on everyone’s list: “eat more new vegetables”. A surprising fact I learned when I moved to Colorado from California to attend culinary school was how few people were familiar with or enjoyed my favorite vegetable, the artichoke. One of the most regal, ancient vegetables, artichokes now have a bit of a reputation - difficult and time consuming to prepare, expensive and very seasonal, some of my classmates complained about how little of it you can actually eat…they are something of a hassle. Unfortunately, I don’t know if many of my classmates turned to artichoke appreciators like me, but hopefully I can tempt them (and you!) into fandom with one of my favorite ingredients, frozen artichoke hearts.

Frozen artichoke hearts are conveniently free from many of the time-consuming aspects of using fresh artichokes, they are cleaned, trimmed and cook very quickly. At Auguste Escoffier Culinary School we focus on farm-to-table, seasonal cooking but in the winter months here in Colorado there are fewer options for fresh, local ingredients. A good alternative is organically grown frozen produce. Frozen fruits and vegetables are picked when they are ripe then flash frozen, preserving the nutritional value that can be lost in fresh out-of-season vegetables that are picked under ripe, then shipped long distances. If possible, find artichoke hearts individually frozen rather than in a block of ice; they thaw quickly and easily and do not give off excessive moisture like some frozen vegetables.

Stocked in your freezer, frozen artichoke hearts are incredibly versatile and useful. Flavors that naturally compliment artichokes range from rich cream and butter to bright lemon and garlic, they are enhanced by slow caramelization or robust roasting, red pepper heat to sweet Marsala glaze. A favorite artichoke dish that I made for my family over the holidays (but can certainly be made year round!) that is excellent on it’s own or as a side is artichoke and ricotta stuffed shells in lemon cream sauce. These stuffed pasta shells are lightly cheesy and creamy, delicately flavored with browned butter and caramelized onions to enhance the artichoke, topped with a luscious lemon and garlic béchamel.

With artichokes no longer restricted to the spring because of the convenience and quality of frozen artichokes hearts, hopefully this humble thistle will make its way into your meals more often. Artichoke hearts compliment and enhance many dishes with their understated flavor and creamy texture and frozen artichoke hearts are a great option, both for their preserved nutritional value and convenience in use. Here is hoping your New Year is filled with friends and family, good food and (artichoke) heart.

Artichoke and Ricotta Stuffed Shells

Inspired by The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook

Yield: 6 main course servings, 12 side dish servings

            For the shells:

24 jumbo pasta shells

3 Tbs butter

2 Tbs olive oil - divided

1 medium onion – small dice

2 leeks – small dice

2 garlic cloves - minced

12 oz frozen artichoke hearts – thawed and dried

1 Tbs fresh thyme

1/3 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 egg yolks

2 Tbs lemon juice

¾ tsp salt      

fresh ground black pepper to taste

8 oz ricotta cheese

1 Tbs fresh parsley - chopped

            For the Sauce:

                        1/3 cup butter (4 Tbs)

                        1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1 garlic clove – minced

                        3 cups whole milk

                        1/2 cup Parmesan cheese

                        2 Tbs lemon juice

                        2 tsp lemon zest

                        1/2 tsp salt

                        freshly ground black pepper to taste

                        2 Tbs fresh parsley - chopped

1.     Cook the shells according to package directions – be sure to cook al dente. Drain and toss with 1 Tbs olive oil to prevent sticking.

2.     To make filling: Melt butter in saucepan – continue to let butter brown until the milk solids begin to caramelize, do not burn. Add 1 Tbs olive oil and onions and leeks, cook until very soft and lightly brown.

      Add garlic and thyme and cook for 1 minute, add artichoke hearts and cook until softened – about 6 minutes. Add wine and cook au sec (until it disappears). Remove from heat and let cool about 30 minutes.

3.     In the bowl of a food processor, add onion/artichoke mixture, egg yolks, Parmesan cheese, lemon juice, salt and pepper and pulse in food processor until finely chopped but some texture remains.

4.     Mix in ricotta and parsley and taste for salt and pepper/lemon. Adjust as needed. Scoop about 2 Tbs filling into each cooked pasta shell, they should be full but able to almost close around the filling.

5.     To make sauce: Melt butter in a saucepan, add garlic and cook until fragrant, then add flour to make blonde roux. Add half the milk in small increments, whisking to remove all lumps, once half the milk is incorporated, the rest can be whisked in. Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer and cook until béchamel is thickened. Add Parmesan cheese, lemon juice and zest, salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasonings.

6.     Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Pour 1 ½ cups sauce into bottom of 9x13 baking dish, arrange filled pasta shells seam up in baking dish.
      Spread remaining sauce over top of shells and cover with aluminum foil (dish can be prepared to this step and held in refrigerator overnight).

7.     Bake at 350 for 30 minutes, remove the foil and bake another 15 minutes until bubbly and lightly browned. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately.

Rethinking Risotto

One of the major points that clearly becomes evident to new culinary arts students is that you are not in the kitchen to memorize recipes, you are there to learn techniques. The measure of a real chef is the ability to cook without a recipe, to know instinctively how ingredients can be combined and worked to create something wholesome and tasty. The risotto technique (not a recipe!) is something that the chef instructors hound into their students throughout the program – the ratio of stock to rice, the manner and timing of adding the liquids and knowing the correct final consistency. Risotto is an important dish to master because while the ingredients are simple, the technique is not; it takes a skilled hand to bring out the elegance of risotto.

The excellent thing about learning techniques is that you can apply those skills to other recipes or ingredients. Risotto can be adapted in thousands of ways – at its essence it is short-grain rice, cooked slowly in stock while being stirred to create a creamy, starchy dish.  Adding herbs, cheeses, different cooking liquids and various seasonings are all ways to enliven a risotto, but not often is the type of grain considered. The risotto technique can be applied to any starchy grain. Faro, bulgur wheat, Israeli couscous, even orzo pasta or lentils can all replace the rice in risotto. Each ingredient has their own characteristics you have to keep in mind, the ratio of liquids and cooking times will differ, but all can be cooked using the same risotto technique. Each grain has a unique flavor profile and texture, both lending a new take on a common dish.

Graduating from Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts with the confidence and practice to cook without a recipe is a great feeling. It is incredibly rewarding to know you’ve got the skills to both create with success something that people know and love, as well as the ability to take those skills and apply them in new creative ways.

This Bacon and Leek Barley Risotto with Poached Eggs is hearty, comforting and decadent without the addition of too many heavy ingredients. This recipe takes risotto and gives it both a new grain and a breakfast-for-dinner spin. Caramelizing the onions and leeks in the bacon fat creates a rich flavor base that is the perfect platform for the nutty barley and smoky bacon.

Bacon and Leek Barley Risotto with Poached Eggs

Serves 4

Adapted from Smitten Kitchen

5 cups chicken stock - hot

6 oz bacon – large dice

1 medium onion – medium dice

1 large leek – medium dice

2 cloves garlic – minced

2 tsp fresh thyme – minced

1 cup pearled barley

½ cup white wine

½ cup freshly grated parmesan cheese

salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

2 Tbs fresh parsley – chopped

4 eggs

1.     In a large, deep skillet cook bacon over medium heat until crisp. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels – reserve bacon and pour off all but two tablespoons of bacon grease from skillet.

2.     Cook onions and leeks in bacon fat over medium-low until very soft and lightly caramelized. Add thyme and garlic, cook 1 more minute.

3.     Add barley to onion mixture and cook, while stirring, for two minutes. Deglaze pan with white wine and cook until wine is absorbed.

4.     Add stock to barley in ½ cup increments, stirring often, only adding more stock once the previous addition is mostly absorbed. Continue stirring and adding liquid in stages until you have about ½ stock cup remaining – about 35 minutes cooking time or until barley is soft. Add the remaining stock as desired to create a creamy, saucy consistency.

5.     Stir in parmesan cheese and adjust salt and pepper. Stir in parsley (reserve some for garnish) and bacon.

6.     Poach eggs in barely simmering salty water. To serve, place poached eggs on each portion of risotto, top egg with salt and pepper (to taste) and a sprinkle of parsley. Serve immediately.